'Cultural appropriation': Mexico warns Adidas of plagiarism in sandal design; President seeks compensation for indigenous artists

Mexican authorities have accused sportswear giant Adidas of “cultural appropriation,” alleging the brand’s new sandal design plagiarises traditional huaraches crafted by indigenous artisans in southern Mexico. Officials have demanded the shoe be withdrawn, calling it an act that may violate Mexican law.

The dispute centres on the “Oaxaca Slip-On,” a sandal designed by US designer Willy Chavarria for Adidas Originals. The shoe features thin braided leather straps in a style tied to the cultural heritage of Zapotec Indigenous communities in Oaxaca, particularly in Villa Hidalgo de Yalalag.

While traditional huaraches use flat leather soles, Adidas’ version incorporates a chunky sports shoe sole.

Oaxaca governor Salomon Jara Cruz sent a public letter to Adidas leadership rejecting the idea that “creative inspiration” could justify the design. “Culture isn’t sold, it’s respected,” he wrote, stressing that cultural expressions “provide identity to communities.”

Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum said on Friday, as quoted by AP, that Adidas was already in talks with Oaxaca officials to offer “compensation for the people who were plagiarised” and announced her government is preparing legal reforms to protect Mexican handicrafts from exploitation.

Handicrafts are a crucial economic lifeline in Mexico, providing jobs for around half a million people and accounting for about 10 per cent of the GDP in states like Oaxaca, Jalisco, Michoacán, and Guerrero. Authorities argue that copying these designs undermines both the livelihoods of artisans and the cultural identity of their communities.

The controversy follows similar disputes in 2021, when Mexico’s federal government confronted brands such as Zara, Anthropologie, and Patowl over designs allegedly taken from Oaxaca’s Indigenous communities.

Authorities are now working on stricter protections, though undersecretary of cultural development Marina Nunez noted they also want to set guidelines that allow artists to “trade or collaborate with several of these companies that have very broad commercial reach," reported AP.